Last Tuesday I carefully packed the car with my skis, multiple jackets for unpredictable weather, snacks and tea. And I headed off to June Mountain for my first ski day of the season. I love going by myself, I get to listen or not listen to music, podcasts, books, meditations, etc. Hmm, what shall I listen to this morning? My intention was to be as mindful as possible, to practice being awestruck by the scenery that is so incredible, every mile of the way. I plug my phone in, having not chosen anything yet. And the music starts playing before I make the left turn onto Chalfant Road. Drums….and then….O Come Ye, Mother Water, I am diving into thee, float me on your rivers and sing me with your seas...wait, what was that? Played it again and again, sang along until I had it memorized (I know, that’s not too hard, but still…) And then, when I pulled over eventually, I added it to my Itunes library. Because it wasn’t there, it was a gift from the Universe. When I go skiing, I am diving into Thee…when I row or swim or honor the waters, I am diving into Thee. This gives me a prayer to sing, what a gift!
Sometimes random things start playing when I plug in my phone. I listen for whatever might be nudging me. Sometimes it’s something amazing or thought provoking, sometimes it’s some music that gets on my nerves! ๐ But I’m open to listening, discerning, and smiling at the many ways the Universe has for inspiring us. And sometimes just messing with our minds. :0 But in this case, Urpichay Sonqo, thank you!
The other night under a full moon, I swam in an old warm springs pool, in the same spring waters as the pupfish are swimming in up the hill and down the flow toward the Amargosa River.โThe Shoshone pupfish were thought to be extinct, but a few were found and then grandly flourished in restored habitat (thank you Susan Sorrells, Steve Parmenter, and all the people and entities who made this happen).โFor more info on the Amargosa Basin and work to protect it, see Friends of the Amargosa Basin website. And consider joining the Friends and maybe even offering a donation.
The next day we traveled home along the Badwater Loop through Death Valley. Water was everywhere in the valley, it was truly amazing! I assume the massive amounts of rain last winter have made a home for now in what is normally a pretty dry area (thus the name, Death Valley).
At 282 feet below sea level, Badwater Basin is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere. It’s normally a salt flat, but right now it’s a big, salty lake! It is SO gorgeous. I did not immerse my body, but I did immerse my feet. And here’s my new rule for this. If I am at a place that is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere and there is water there, and if I take off my shoes and wander in, that counts!โ 48+2= 50. 20 to go!
Immersed in boulangeries, people, museums, exquisite food, and beloved ones on this trip. I even had my suit and cap in my pack these last few days in Amsterdam knowing there was a lovely indoor pool nearby. But alas, museums took precedence. We did cruise on the Seine in Paris and the canals in Amsterdam. I touched the Seine where I could to send and receive water blessings. And we had some good rain in both places, which is immersion of a sort of one is in that frame of mind, which I was. ๐๐ And I saw a scull go by on our canal, thrilled to catch a glimpse. More later!! Lots of travel time coming up, heading to momโs for Christmas Eve.
Taking off for a winter holiday in Paris soon, first time in France…so I wondered, is there any way I might immerse? The fountains and the Seine would be far too cold. But voila! There are indoor pools! Sure there is plenty to do in Paris (I hear :0), but I think I’ll sneak my suit, googles and cap into my suitcase and make at least one water immersion part of my pilgrimage. Article about pools of Paris in the NY times.
I also plan to write (or just post a photo) about water in many forms, in wine, for example. And cafe’! And no doubt the rain will fall on us–as Owen Wilson says in Midnight in Paris…”actually, Paris is most beautiful in the rain”. I will keep repeating that as a mantra until I believe it! If you have ideas on where else I might notice and immerse my mind/heart in water in Paris (and Amsterdam), do let me know. Looking forward to those canals of Amsterdam too!
Immersion can also be just sitting, listening, enjoying, being in the moment with the waters of the world. Wonder. Awe. I researched how to post on this blog with only my iPhone, so words may be scanty but I’m sure pictures will be worth a thousand words. Au revoir!
It’s a warm autumn day in Mammoth Lakes so why not a dip into a mountain lake? We rode our bikes along the Lakes loop trail and then, well, I just happened to wear my swimsuit this morning just in case. ๐ Yes, it was quite cold. No one else in the water. 47 + 1 = 48. 22 to go. The rowing shell did not make it down from the garage rafters this year. It will be top priority next spring/summer!
First of all, the immersion with current friends and new friends from O.R.E. was really lovely. We talked water and paddling, food, turtles, eagles and river otters. We immersed in the beautiful wild and scenic portion of the Rogue River of Oregon and the cold creeks and waterfalls feeding it.
After a partial day of paddling, we set up camp while the guides cooked for us–not just dinner, but hors d’oeuvres as well. And all was scrumptious. At a few camps we jumped in the river a bit upstream and floated down–lovely! Bocce was a daily late afternoon ritual. Rogue River plus two side really cold pools = 3.
And today, August 17, 2023, I can log three different immersions over the last few days. Tenaya Lake in Yosemite High Country, Mirror Lake in Yosemite Valley, and a lake I’m keeping secret up in the Rock Creek area.
OMG, no people, amazing full immersion. I hope to get back to rowing soon, it’s time to get the shell off the ceiling of the garage and out into the water before it’s too late for this season. Stay tuned!
So that’ 3 + 3 = 6 (impressive math ๐ plus previous 41 = 47. That’s 23 to go. Better get going!
Sailing with Pat & Maria in San Diego, first XCountry Ski for me (White Mountains), Asilomar Beach dunk, swim (and hot tub of course) at Esalen on the Big Sur Coast, and a light show swim at the Furnace Creek Ranch in Death Valley. Previously 36 immersions + 5 = 41.
I assumed the blog would be mostly hibernating during the winter. But as I was skiing at the gorgeous June Mountain yesterday, I realized I was “immersing on” frozen water. Why not? (reminder, I get to make up the rules) I was singing to the snow, calling in the tree spirits* (Humpwey Malkikuna) and mountain spirits (Apukuna), and Mother of the Waters (Mama Cocha), and doing sound healing on the chairlift. So much gratitude for this day, Urpichay Sonqo!
Not a bad view for a lunch breakOn the Matterhorn run, I look a little like a stormtrooper ๐ Clearly not very crowded!
The snow was perfect, deep, groomed and squeeky, and very few people. It doesn’t get any better than yesterday. I’ve also immersed recently at Keough’s Hot Springs and boogey boarded a couple times over Thanksgiving at Stinson Beach. I’ll just count one of those ocean immersions. Oh it was spectacular. I had to wait for times when the waves were small, somewhat different than when I was young.
So that’s 3 additional immersions. Maybe I’ll snowshoe today up Bishop Creek. ๐
Tally: 33 + 3 = 36
Mono Lake below covered with fog
*MALKIKUNA โ โTree Spiritsโ live in ancient trees and represent the tree of life reaching far into the heavens, and deep into the earth. They are honored in the north and feed on the energy of mineral products: crystals (often powdered), mica, magnetite, pyrite, gemstones, sand, stones, ores, etc.Heart of the Healer website.
In some ways this blog seems a bit egotistical, but I have good intentions so hopefully that balances it out. I want to immerse in Pachamama (earth) and Mama Cocha (waters) more, to offer prayers of gratitude and healing. Photos and posting is encouraging me to do that. Even if nobody reads my posts, I’m enjoying this. ๐ And speaking of gratitude, many thanks to spouse Harold who is my unheralded photographer. ๐ He is very patient. And has a good eye!
Stinson Beach, 9/29/22 Did a little bodysurfing (short john wetsuit), awesome! Had lunch prior to swim with Parkside Levain (such amazingly good bread) and H’s yummy accoutrements. Delightful day!
Lake Tahoe, Sunset Cove, 10/6/22. One of my very favorite swimming spots, water is crystal clear, tiny little beach, intriguing rocks, white sand bottom. So blue! Water a bit colder than earlier in the year but still oh so wonderful.
Heart Lake, Rock Creek/Mosquito Flat Trailhead. 10/8/22, Brrrr…water getting colder! Hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a (brief) swim.
Grass Lake, 10/14/22–Now the water in the Sierra is getting ridiculously cold (for me)! Normally it just takes me a moment to catch my breath and I can take at least a few strokes. But….woo! Cold, cold, cold! Full immersion and out immediately! Got out before photo op ๐ Grass Lake is gorgeous anytime, but in the Fall it’s particularly beautiful.
Talley: 29 previous + 4 = 33. 37 to go.
I think I’m going to need to go to Hawaii to get some winter swims in ๐ And/or San Diego (a bit closer!)
Peru. Bookended by lost luggage and now that I’m home, Covid, it was an amazing trip. Peru is very keen on mask wearing as are the airlines serving Lima and Cusco, but not the US, so I’m blaming the Covid on LAX (ie lax), but I could be wrong. I’m just SO very grateful that I was well my whole trip. Urpichay Sonqo (Offering You the Dove of My Heart in Gratitude).
I first want send my Munay (love) and immense gratitude to our Peruvian friends Karina, Fanny and the whole family for their wondrous care on this journey. Illary Chaska Spiritual Center, Karina’s vision, sits at the foot of Mama Veronica/Huaka Willka, sacred mountain. She is a gorgeous, tender mountain and Karina’s vision of a sacred center is embraced perfectly by Her. Each morning I’d go out and sit with Her and watch the rising sun grace her caves and contours, old terraces, grandmother arms. Lucas (the dog) and I would do a little qigong, some breath work, and just sit and tend. Lucas has a love bucket that always seems to need more!
Pray
I’m going to begin with Pray, because this pilgrimage to Peru is a huge part of my spiritual path. And I think the 70by70 challenge for me is too, really. When I dive into a mountain lake, or row on gorgeous bodies of water, or even just take some moments to bless and profess gratitude, I create and nurture a relationship with this amazing element of Mother Earth. When I went down to the river to pray….those lyrics go through my head quite a lot.
Since 2016 Q’ero medicine from the Andes of Peru has become more and more a part of the tapestry of my spirit journey. That year we happened to stay in an Airbnb casita owned by my now teacher, Celia Blackwood, as we traveled to Tucson for a Josh Ritter concert (Sermon on the Rock tour). There’s more to that story but that was how we originally connected. I think it was in 2018 I committed to the Andean Mesa building process, Tawantinsuyu Mesachakuy and was initiated as a full Mesa carrier in this Q’ero Shaman tradition after a year of study, work and ceremony. We move beyond the context of our personal healing and grow into being of service for the greatest good. Coming from a place of gratitude, humility and respect for all life, we step up as caretakers of the earth and stewards of the world around us. So this journey to Peru these years later was a huge step on this path of service, of heart, of Munay. So this was no ordinary trip.
We were accompanied most days by Paqos from Q’eros, a remote mountain region whose people were still honoring and tending the Apus (mountains), rivers, trees, lands, waters. We began our second day with a water cleansing ceremony (Hucha Rumi) and a blessing down at Riti Mayu (snow river) on the property. This was followed by a Haywarikuy (Despacho) ceremony–introducing ourselves to the Apus, waters, clouds, and lands of this country and gratitude for our safe journey. That night, we offered the despacho to sacred fire, staying unattached to outcome, singing our gratitude as the offering lifted to the sky transformed to smoke and flame and grace.
Karina, Celia, JuanDespacho Ceremony
Between our morning ceremonies and the evening fire, we journeyed to Ollantaytambo for some lunch and our first foray into the Incan archaeology sites. Everywhere, everywhere, there are signs of this great and very short-lived civilization. Terraces, everywhere. Some still in use, most just roadside “oh look, there’s another one!” So, Ollantaytambo. Temple of the Sun (straight up, first adventure with altitude), Temple of the Wind, Temple of the Condor (we sat in silence, meditated), Temple of Las Nustas (ceremonial bath places for the queens/qollas)–yes, I was tempted as water is still flowing there, but refrained :). I did my water blessing there connecting with Pachamama, Pachatata, Mama Cocha, all that is seen, all that is unseen…
Nearly every day a despacho at a sacred site. Our paqos Juan Apaza Quispe and Juan Hauman Machacca did a Munay (love) despacho at Unu Orqo that was powerful and sweet. We blow our prayers into kintus (3 coca leaves) and offer those prayers into the mandala. The messages flowed from serpent rock into my heart to do a heart practice every morning, to listen to what that will be and become for me.
More prayer places…Temple of the Moon (near Cusco)–We were on our own (sans Paqos) one of these places that is totally awesome, powerful, and very few people there. Very womb like, fertile….feminine!
Temple of the Moon ceremony, Mesas
Moray–one interpretation of these amazing terraces is that this was an experimental site for growing corn, each terrace a microclimate. We were off to the side in a small, less visible place in meditation and prayer as our Paqo Juan held space from above for this feminine gathering and touching of Pachamama.
Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, Tambomachay–I led a simple qigong practice at the top of Sacsayhuaman, the Incan fortress/Temple of the Sun above Cusco. It felt very deep and old. We got there early so had a lovely, quiet visit. Could spend WAY more time there! Q’enko was an astronomy site and Tambomachay the place of cleansing waters prior to ceremonies. The waters still run and it’s unclear where they are coming from. So much! At each site we opened sacred space, we learned about history, but mainly we were there to honor the sacred and to honor this tradition we have chosen/been chosen to follow to be of service to Pachamama (Mother Earth). I cleansed my kuyas (mesa stones) in the little creek that ran behind where we were sitting.
TambomachayPortal At SacsayhuamanSachamama at sacsayhuaman
Machu Picchu was amazing but also really regulated. We had been in some sites that we had nearly to ourselves, this was very different! And for good reason. Here’s a good summary from Khan Academy re this site and its need for protection.
Temple of the three windows the three worlds I like Pacha Pacha PachaPuchacuti used these mirrors, eyes of the condor, for connecting to the sacred beings for his inspiration for Machu PicchuThere is always water in these “condor eyes”
Here is my little miracle of Machu Picchu story. If you get my newsletter you’ve already heard it. It was day 4, my lost luggage had not been heard from. Got up at 4:00 am to catch the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, where we then caught a bus to Machu Picchu. We had made our way up the stone steps and were looking down into the site. We stepped aside from the trail to offer prayers of thanksgiving and connection. As we prayed, bending down to connect with the Earth, Fanny’s phone rang, which is odd enough in such a remote place! She hangs up and says subtly, “Betsy, your luggage is in Cusco”. Well, that whole scene just seemed like a miracle to me. I’m in Peru, I’m at Machu Picchu, I’m praying, and my luggage finally arrived. I just started crying at the immensity of it all. I had not been worried, as my Mesa was in the suitcase along with all my hiking stuff for later in the trip. I knew my Mesa would not miss the hikes! A relief though!
More prayer stuff…Churches& Temples–In the center of Cusco lies the center of the world, the belly button, THE Cusco/Q’osco. In the church/convent of Santo Domingo are ancient Incan walls and rooms. This was and is the Koricancha, the Temple of the Sun. It is here there is an opening into the earth right in the center of the site. As I meditated here, it felt like there was an umbilical cord going into this center connecting the world we know with mystery and with Munay. Worth the 15 soles admission alone. But the site also includes a beautiful painting of seqes (an explanation of the Incan calendar and holy sites/wakas), and a painting of Incan interpretation of constellations and the Milky Way. They saw the darkness as well as the light in their constellations. The other church some of us spent a bit of time in was the Basilica on the main square. There are some ancient things of interest to those of us following this path ๐ Decent article on the Koricancha here.
Eat
The food was unbelievably good and fresh. Truche (trout) was amazing, cooked in a variety of ways including encrusted with roasted quinoa. Carmen was our cook for the times we spent at the guesthouse. She got up early, made tea, cooked, cleaned up and then started our next meal. We had fresh juices, bowls of finely chopped fresh fruits, yogurt/kefir, bread, palta (avocado), ham, coca tea, amazing coffee, and then often eggs or pancakes. Best soups ever for lunch and/or dinner, mostly all different. Quinoa soup surprisingly good–the fresh herbs and veggies were clearly a main player in all the dishes.
Fruit and Veg altar after marketMarket in CuscoChoclo con quesoTruche with roasted quinoaChoclo cooks, Moray
Carmen was joined by her dad, Elmer, as cooks at our mountain camp at Soraypampa, our base for 3 nights exploring around Apus Salkantay and Humantay. Grand finale of food…it was to be Alice’s birthday the day after we returned to Illary Chaska from our mountain camp. The morning we were to leave the mountains (camping at 12,631 feet elevation), she was surprised with a birthday cake at the conclusion of a substantial breakfast. And it was GOOD and moist. Imagine the feat of baking at that elevation, in a tent, on a little stove….Elmer! Another Elmer story …We hiked from Soraypampa to Humantay Lake, a gorgeous glacier fed lake at 13,900 ish feet elevation (1300 foot climb in 2.6 miles). It took us about 3.5 hours to get up there, lots of resting, breathing, coca leaf chewing. We were resting near the top, just a few hundred feet from the lake. Elmer shows up with our lunch–I’m talking tin plates, silverware, cups, rice, a meat dish, and a big thermos of coca tea (for 12 of us). And he arrives with a smile on his face and says “one hour!” He made that climb with a full lunch for 12 in one hour. I wish I had a picture of this but his blue shirt and triumphant grin live on in my memory.
Hike
Well, you heard about the main hike to Humantay Lake via my Eat section above. This hike was a true pilgrimage–we took it slow, we connected and prayed, and we were initiated with a Hartun Karpay at the lake, opening and clearing of our three main energy centers, connecting more cleanly to Apu Humantay and the Mama Cocha (big glacier lake) there, and received a kuya (stone) for our Mesas. We ended up hiking back at dusk and dark, in the moonlight. Tired, but transformed. And then, of course, an Elmer/Carmen amazing meal and some stargazing before climbing into our sleeping bags with a nalgene bottle full of hot water for the cold night.
After climbing 1300 feet in 2.6 miles, I got a Gatorade. Yum!! Juan and MariaIf only we could fly like condors up there!
Shop
With an exchange rate of 3.8 soles to $1, a beautiful array of textiles, and a trip of all women, shopping was sort of a prayerful experience. ๐ Meret’s shop is the best. She’s a friend of Celia’s who has studied textiles at the University and is totally the sweetest person. Go up the hill from the Plaza de las Armas at the KFC (yes) and continue upward to the right. There’s a little sign with an artist’s palette (I think) and that’s her shop. She will tell you what’s authentic, what is 100% alpaca and what is a mixture. And she has some amazing old things, I mean old. Powerful little shop. We also bought textiles and garments from our Paqos and Karina’s sister Anna. And there are vendors anywhere you might look. It’s good to buy from people you know, that way you know more about the quality and the energy that comes with the items. Here’s Juan spinning for Philippa, his wife, for her weaving work.
Water Immersions!
Lest I forget, I immersed in the Urubamba River after our Machu Picchu excursion. Also immersed in Riti Mayu, the creek that runs through Karina’s property. Riti Mayu means snow river–the water comes from Apu Veronica’s glaciers, so a bit cold! My count is up to 29!
Riti MayuUrubamba RiverBlowing prayer, not drinking!
Luggage Story Conclusion
I did get my luggage before the hike, so grateful! Karina’s nephew, Giuseppe (yes, Karina’s family is everywhere and amazing), works at the airport and was instrumental in pursuing my lost luggage. So now, back in Cusco, I was awaiting a ride to the airport to fill out paperwork and get my luggage. And then how was I to carry this 45+ pound bag up the steps in my motel? I was kinda dreading the airport scene, struggling with the language (though I knew I’d have help), etc. Who but Giuseppe pulls up in front of our little motel? And he has my bag. I don’t have to go to the airport!! Hurrah!! And he brought it up the stairs. What a family!!
Conclusion & Gratitude
So much gratitude to my teacher Celia for offering and organizing this trip, and all the wonderful humans with whom I got to share this experience: Julie, Erin, Brooke, Kristin, Nicole, Alice, Jan, Chris, and Helena. And to Karina of course, her sister Fanny our guide (the photographer below), Paqos Juan Apaza Quispe and Maria Pauccar, magnificent cooks Elmer and Carmen, Paqo Juan Hauman Machacca (not pictured here)…Karina’s brothers as transport (Alberto et al .) and Giuseppe. Karina’s daughter Chaska, Carmen’s daughter, Lucas of course and his friend. If I forgot anyone I include them all in my heart.
Urpichay Sonqoyay! Munay!!
Soraypampa Base Camp getting ready to leave ๐ฆ
Karina and Celia, Hatun Urpichay and Munay!
Sweet Ones!
Below a poem I wrote inspired by Mama Veronica
Sunrise at Illary Chaska
Mama Veronica accepts the raiment of light I watch and sit with love as she dons the new light of day and pay homage to this Apu mother of mine. So beautiful, so kind and gentle. I do not even see her glorious snow covered peak from here but her backside warms me with her soft words and teachings. If you don’t know what to do, start with me.
Tend, tender, tend her.
I have many caves and crevices canyons and folds The clouds honor me with moist, cool Munay as they dance across the sky.
I have faces that change with the sun, shadow and new perspective. I have been tended so I am gentle, deep and powerful.
When you get home sing me a song. Play your flute to me. Greet the sun and imagine it shining over me, revealing my innermost knowing.
Know I greet you back with love and an embrace of a Mother Apu to her daughter, a kuya of grace and blessing.
———————
Betsy, 9/2/22 Illary Chaska Spiritual Center (Karina’s Place ๐ near Ollantaytambo, Peru